The Many Moths Of Moro

28 02 2012

The Southern Highlands of Papua New Guinea, where I spend the majority of my time at the moment, has some of the most amazing wildlife one could hope to come across. Unfortunately, most of it is either too fast or too far away for my little point-and-shoot camera to capture images that do justice to the encounters.

However, one morning I decided to get up early and photograph some moths (and other insects) found in the camp and jungle around where I live, so that I could share a small part of what I see with those of you who read this blog. I hope you enjoy.

PS So that you get an idea of the abundance of flora and fauna in the area, all these images were captured in a period of less than an hour.





Adelaide, Benaria And The End Of The Road

12 01 2012

I can just cast my mind back to the last time I wrote a blog, and I know it was a long time ago, so a few of the details of what I’ve been up to since then will no doubt fall by the way-side in an attempt to catch up.

My first trip back to Adelaide (at the end of last year) coincided with Emily having some time off between her job in Vietnam and starting at the Adelaide Fringe. We made the most of being able to see our friends, family and the country that we’d been away from for almost six months.

We drank wine, ate good food and generally managed to lead an overindulgent lifestyle for the three weeks! One exception to this was a lovely hike along the coast south of Adelaide.

The walk started off in scrubland that had recently been the victim of a bushfire

But life was already springing back in the plants

And from the seed pods that open during and after such events

The soles of my boots fell off early in the walk – victims of the humidity of PNG

The dramatic cliff-top view for lunch

Towards the end of the walk, and of the day

The next day after the walk it was time for me to head back to PNG for another stint in the Southern Highlands. It was an eventful trip and one that made me very ready to come home just in time for Christmas in Adelaide.

Two of the highlights of this five week trip to PNG were a road trip to the literal end of the road (the Government and the construction company ran out of money to build any further and link up with other end) with members of our Security Department, and a helicopter flight to Benaria, a village completely isolated from the outside world, in a steep valley, with the access only by a long foot journey.

On our way to the end of the road just over the next mountain range.

Constructing a house using bush materials – ladder and all!

The local lads where we stopped for a break

Some of the local women washing clothes in one of the many magnificent rivers in the highlands.

Heading into Benaria by crowded helicopter for local community meetings with our community affairs staff and the police

This swath of dead trees was the result of something I never expected to hear of in the Highlands of PNG – a drought

Benaria village in the bottom of a steep valley complete with a river, airstrip and many highland-style gardens

The view down Benaria valley showing the many gardens the locals of the Southern Highlands build so well

This was going to be our helipad, but as you can see someone decided it would make a better home and garden than a helipad, so we had to land elsewhere.

Even landing unannounced in the middle of nowhere help wasn’t far away

Time for me to head back to the office and leave the guys to do their good work in the community





The Future Of PNG

15 10 2011

Last Friday I had the privilege of being a guest of honour at the prize presentation for Waro Primary School, who won our company’s competition to record local customs in words and images.  The turn out for the presentation was amazing, and they put on a real show, but before I tell you about that I thought I’d give an insight through this particular school into education in PNG.

I read the other day that, taking into account inflation, the PNG government spends 1/14th on education today when compared to the mid 1970’s.  That means if at Independence in 1975 the government spent an arbitrary amount, for maths sake say 140 kina per student, today they would only spend 10 kina.

According one of my fellow speakers on the day, Waro Primary School has no electricity, no computers, and a staggering 480 pupils (with 40% boarding at the school) and only 11 teachers.  Thankfully it appears there is very strong parental involvement, if the turn out on the day, and the recently finished grandstand, were anything to go by.  Needless to say it makes me feel very fortunate to have received, and continue to receive, the education in Australia I seldom gave a thought about previously.

We arrived at the school mid-morning (after a long and bumpy ride) and were met by the principal and chair of the school board, who escorted us to the entrance gate, where I got to cut the ‘ribbon’ to start the parade.  Upon cutting the grass strands, a group of traditionally dressed drama students pretended to shoot me with arrows, before escorting our group to the stage.

The guard of honour from the entrance gate to the stage

The entrance gate and ambush await

All the students lined up ready to sing the national anthem

To open the ceremony there were a few speeches, including one given by yours truly, and a very enthusiastic and rather graphic performance by the drama group.

The enactment of two tribes coming into contact for the first time

Unfortunately one of the performers was shot and died; complete with blood and guts coming out of him!

James (far left) and I with some of the local teachers and leaders

Giving my speech to the students

We then presented all the participants of the competition with certificates, and the winners with prizes.  The school also won a prize for being the best in the district, and so celebrated with an early dismissal for a long weekend!

The winners of the achievement certificates lined up (with me in the background)

The winners from each year level

Presenting the youngest winner with his prize

The future of PNG: one of the prize winners on the day

All in all it was an amazing day and one that I will remember for a long time; not a bad day in the office really…





Hepi Mama Karim Dai

9 10 2011

What could well have been a rather forgettable birthday turned into one that I will remember for all the right reasons.  I started the day with some lovely gifts from my family, given to me months in advance, in various locations as we crossed paths around the globe, so that I could carry them up to the field for the big day.  As chance would have it the gifts had one additional journey to make, from Moro to Port Moresby, where I got to catch up with a few colleagues to celebrate over lunch, in a pleasant change from my regular surroundings (who ever thought Port Moresby and pleasant would be used in the same sentence?!).

In the evening Pradeep and Kristina took me out for an unforgettable meal with good food, wine, humour and general enjoyment that saw us still going much later than expected (considering Pradeep had got off the plane from the US and come straight to dinner).

I also has an overwhelming number of thoughtful messages; via phone, SMS, email, Facebook, etc. from so many friends – to all of you a huge thank you for making it a great day.

However… the biggest thank you HAS to be saved for my wonderful girlfriend Emily, who not only made me a lovely present to bring to PNG, but also spent the entire day sending through the letters to “HAPPY BIRTHDAY” one at a time via email, using her great friends and the many of the locations I know from Hanoi.  Thank you for being so creative, thoughtful and just generally making me one very happy guy; on my birthday and every other day.  Here’s the final assembled product…

PS If you didn’t quite get it; “hepi mama karim dai” is “happy mother carrying day”, or happy birthday in Tok Pisin!





PNG: Wok Ples Blong Mi

2 10 2011

As I’ve been in my new role in the Southern Highlands of PNG for a few months now I thought I’d share with you some images from my day-to-day work life.  It’s an interesting workplace, with many challenges that wouldn’t be encountered anywhere else in the world, but also many opportunities to see things that best belong in the pages of high-priced adventure travel brochures for the über-riche or National Geographic magazine (although obviously with more journalistic ability than my writing and images have).

I’ve managed to get out and about for a few excursions to villages at the end of the road (as in the government built dirt track doesn’t extend past the end of the village) to do community presentations and survey a few locations.  Further north of these villages the only way for now to access the community, and the pipeline route, is to be dropped in by helicopter (and hope that the weather remains good so that pick up is possible also).

Here are a few images to show you what life is like; most of them are from a presentation of beds we made to the local aid post in Paua, where I made the presentation and speech, and then we all headed to a feast put on by one of the local leaders.

The village of Paua is the only interruption to jungle as far as the eye can see

Locals begin to arrive for the presentation ceremony

In PNG you become very good at standing around waiting for things to get started

After the presentations we were invited to be guests of honour at a traditional “BBQ”.  Here’s my colleague Dave leading off into the village.

Peering into one of the gardens that the locals take great pride in

The feast consisted of local vegetables (taro, sweet potato and banana) roasted in the ground with pork

The party getting underway, with many mouths to feed.  Unfortunately for the dogs, waiting patiently to the side, there was not much in the way of left-overs.

Some of the local lads at one of my regular field site visits

Most of the team that I am now leading up here, after a safety meeting on site

Apart from work there are other things to do, although as the camp is a construction camp, it’s not quite on the luxurious scale of the production facility camps I’ve experienced in the past.  I run on the airstrip or go to the gym in the evenings, read or watch TV, and thankfully (due to my emergency coordination responsibilities) I have a phone and internet in my room.  And of course, there’s always the wildlife…

What I initially thought was a leaf…

Turned out to be a moth!





Rice, Rain And Riding

26 09 2011

I’ve just departed Vietnam for the seventh time.  It will likely be a while before I head back there, but I hope one day I’ll visit again.  I imagine if I leave it for a while I’ll be visiting a very different country when I return, judging by the rate of development and change in the long skinny country I’ve almost come to call home over the last few months.

Because the last three visits were so close together I’ve rolled a few images from each trip into this post.  It’s been great relaxing in Hanoi and seeing a few different sights and sounds that most tourists don’t see during the day and hanging out with Emily and her friends at night.  From the images to come you’ll get an idea of what we got up to in Hanoi and the places we visited on the weekends, such as Mai Chau and Hoi An, and many different restaurants.

Mai Chau

Emily and I spent a weekend in Mai Chau, in the mountains of Vietnam, touring rice paddies, visiting ethnic minorities and relaxing away from the hustle and bustle of Hanoi.

We stayed at a beautiful lodge amongst the rice paddies with views over the mountains

There was also a view from our balcony overlooking a lake with lotus flowers in bloom

Although some of the time I was more interested in a book than the view

We went for a stroll through the paddies to the local village

On the way we saw a local swishing a net around, although it wasn’t for butterflies…

It was for dinner!

Although some yearned to be free

We visited the local Hmong market and saw all the hand-made cloth that the locals produce

We also visited a local Hmong village.  It was a strange experience as our guide just walked into a house and started showing us around.  As our eyes became accustomed to the light we noticed we were in the living room, which contained grandma and grandpa’s bed, complete with grandma and grandpa.  He was happy to have a (translated) chat with us, but judging by the grunts and snores she would have preferred we let her get back to sleep!

Finally we also went for a ride to a village a little further away

Where the rice was fully grown and being harvested by hand and buffalo

A buffalo having a well-earned bath

Us at the end of the bike ride, looking over the valleys of rice, wedged between towering mountains

Eating

One of the things that I didn’t lack on my trips to Vietnam was good food and plenty of it.  I ate everywhere, from street food and local restaurants, to some of the fanciest places in town.  I even tried my hand at cooking the local fare myself, participating in a cooking class where we made caramel clay pot pork and were able to sample some of the stranger things Vietnamese eat (silk worms and duck fetus) and visit the local markets to see how they operate.

Eating on the floor of Chim Sao in Hanoi with Emily (and Erin), with great food and absolutely the most unprofessional staff we’ve ever encountered

We had dinner with Mum and Dad at Morning Glory in Hoi An for Father’s Day

Mum and Dad at the Father’s Day dinner

Mum and Dad eating out in Hoi An in a restaurant on the river

My private loft for lunch at Co Restaurant – Truc Bach, Hanoi

The courtyard view I had while eating a few yummy dishes

Our very trendy chef for my last street food dinner

The aforementioned street food – charcooked duck with lemongrass

The delicious end result and one very happy customer

My last Bun Cha, one of my favourite Vietnamese dishes

Emily took me out to dinner at the Metropole for our last Saturday together to celebrate my birthday a little early.  It was a great meal, both for Emily who got a double dose of truffle-goodness, and me who got three-from-three great courses!

Sights and Sounds

Here are a few images from around the place in Vietnam, to give you one last idea of what adventures I experienced, and maybe to even whet your appetite to visit Vietnam yourself.

The Ha An hotel where we stayed in Hoi An was absolutely fantastic.  A great place to return to after a long day getting tailored clothes or relaxing at the beach.

This was the protest that my travel warning advisory told me to avoid… Nothing says down with our northern neighbours like a little protest sax, except for a protest sax/violin combo, take that China!

Doing it tough beside the pool at the Metropole in Hanoi, complete with free gelato and cocktail menu, oh yeah!

An eclectic cafe that I found in Tay Ho with retro reel-to-reel stereos blasting old school classics

The magnificent view of Hoan Kiem lake from the a spot Emily introduced me to, along with a great drink called cafe trung, strong Vietnamese coffee frothed with egg white

A big thanks to all the people that made my trips to Vietnam so special, it would not have been the same without them, from the randoms I met along the way to the people I travelled with.  The biggest thanks I’ll save for Emily though, for letting me crash her year away from Australia again and again, for taking some great photos (as in at least half of this post), for showing me some great things that only an expat would know, and for being a great person to travel with.  I hope it was just as enjoyable for you.





Resolution Review

13 09 2011

In my head I planned to provide an update for my New Year’s Resolutions on July 1st, just to show that I’d made some “progress” by the middle of the year, but then there’s a lot of things I plan in my head that don’t make it much further than there… However, I’ve managed to finally get around to an update so here it is, warts and all!

  • Be able to swim 1km freestyle without stopping – This one has taken a hit due to the fact there’s no pool where I work now!  I was getting to around 1km a week (with a break) before the new job, so hopefully with a little effort once I’m back in Adelaide for my three weeks off I should be able to reach my target.
  • Finish two more subjects from my Masters – One subject done and dusted in first semester, but this semester I made the decision to focus on getting used to my new position at work, so I didn’t quite make it.
  • See my girlfriend (more than once would be nice) and our families in the first half of the year – Done, and how I enjoyed it!  The Philippines and Adelaide (the planned trip) with Emily, and an Adelaide (the unplanned trip) catch up with all our parents.
  • Get my Rescue Diver certification – Done, and it was harder than I expected.  I also got my EANx (Nitrox) certification.
  • See more of PNG (at least one work trip to a new location and one holiday to a new province) – Done, with a work trip to the very end (at the ocean) of the pipeline  we’re building near the beginning of the year, and a diving holiday to Milne Bay in June.
  • Keep up to date with my magazine subscription reading – This has proven to be a challenge, and not just because all my subscriptions are delivered to Adelaide while I’m in PNG.  I’m about three months behind (that’s about 8 magazines) but will whittle this number down as I’ve just had a fresh delivery from Adelaide!
  • Do 10 chin ups – I haven’t been focusing on this one all that much, but I think at a push I could do 7… watch this space for more…
  • Finish off my 2010 “To Do List” (almost made it) – Done, although there were a few that just got added to the 2011 “To Do List”!
  • Sort out my finances (yawn) – Done, with a foray into the stock market and the beginnings of a search for a new house!
  • Get Chartered Professional Engineering status – In the process as we speak.  I was surprised to find out it’s a much more iterative (and time-consuming) process than I initially expected. 
  • See more of Port Moresby (visit parliament, the botanical gardens and the market at the university) – Done, although not to the university market as it was always the same time as diving.
  • Watch less TV (starting with TV-free February) – Done, with not only TV free Feb, but also most of the rest of the year.  I packed away my TV at the end of Jan and never got in back out again!
  • Re-start my Mandarin lessons and practice my Tok Pisin (Pidgin English) more – Being based in the Southern Highlands there’s more than a few Pisin speakers only too happy to have a conversation in the local lingo.  And the Mandarin lessons are my almost constant companion when out running these days.
  • Finish reading “The God Delusion” and “Guns, Germs and Steel” by April so I can return them to Pete – Done, and a big thanks to Pete for not only his patience at lending them to me for so long, but for getting me to read them in the first place.  I learnt many important things from both books and I’d strongly recommend them to anyone.
  • Run 12 km in 60 mins or less by Sept – I’ve been running 4 times a week, and am fairly sure I could, but would be a little puffed at the end.  However, as I haven’t timed myself over a set distance I’m afraid this one is a fail.  Although I can now run further than I ever could before, and I plan to keep getting better, so it’s a pretty good outcome all the same!
  • Help out with a community project here in PNG – Tired of waiting for an opportunity to present itself to me for participation I decided to see what some of the PNG citizens I work with would value. After a few discussions just before I left for my last break, I’ll be commencing weekly lessons for our drivers (and anyone else that’s interested) in the only thing I was really any good at during school… maths!
  • And of course, keep blogging – Done, although not as frequently as I’d like, but hopefully you’re still enjoying it as much as I am!

Well there we go, I’ve managed to stay on track with most of my Resolutions, and if I can remain focussed I should be able to tick all but one (my Masters course) by the end of the year.  Time to go for a run…








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